Trip guide

Big waves and expert spots

Nazaré, Mullaghmore, Belharra, Mundaka and the heavy end of Europe

Europe's Atlantic coast has some of the most powerful waves on Earth. At Nazaré a deep submarine canyon focuses swell into the biggest waves ever surfed; in the Bay of Biscay another canyon delivers swell to the beaches of Hossegor, sandbanks at the mouth of a river create Mundaka's famous left, and offshore reefs like Belharra stand up giant waves on the biggest winter days. Further north, Mullaghmore Head and Aileen's below the Cliffs of Moher take the full force of the Atlantic, and the islands have heavy reefs of their own, from Jardim do Mar on Madeira to the lava slabs of the Azores and the Canaries.

None of these spots is for learning. Most are expert-only, many are crowded with a strong local hierarchy, and some are tow-in waves where jet skis and boats are part of the safety plan. But nearly all of them can be watched from land, and on a big day the show is spectacular.

When they break

Basque tourism names October to February as the big-wave season. Surf forecasters rate October as La Gravière's most consistent month and January as Mundaka's, while Belharra, according to the Pays Basque tourism office, only breaks on rare autumn and winter days with a huge swell and a southerly wind.

The rest of Europe's big-wave spots follow the same winter calendar. Nazaré and Mullaghmore Head work from October to March, and Aileen's and Jardim do Mar need the large, long-period swells of the depth of winter. The records show it: Garrett McNamara rode a wave of about 24 m at Nazaré in November 2011, Sebastian Steudtner set the 26.2 m world record there in October 2020, and on 8 March 2012 surfers rode waves of up to about 15 m off Mullaghmore.

Regional guides to south-west France suggest September to December and January to April for advanced and expert surfers.

Watching safely

Many of these waves have natural grandstands: the fort and lighthouse above Praia do Norte at Nazaré, where thousands gather on giant days, the headland at Mullaghmore, the cliffs above Meñakoz and Punta Galea, the promenade at Guéthary and the harbour wall at Mundaka. Basque tourism mentions Meñakoz and Punta Galea as places to watch big-wave sessions.

When Belharra breaks, the authorities close the coastal path and the Corniche car parks by decree, so follow local instructions. Stay back from cliff edges and sea walls on big days: rogue sets can sweep over them.

The route

Portugal Centro

Nazaré's Praia do Norte, where the submarine canyon makes the biggest waves ever surfed, and Supertubos near Peniche, one of Europe's heaviest beach breaks.

Landes

The Gouf de Capbreton canyon delivers swell at full power to Hossegor's banks: La Gravière and La Nord are among the heaviest beach breaks in Europe.

Pays Basque

Offshore reefs and points: Belharra, Avalanche, Parlementia and Lafitenia.

Bizkaia

Mundaka's left, plus the big-wave reefs of Meñakoz and Punta Galea near Bilbao.

Ireland North West

Mullaghmore Head, Ireland's best-known big-wave spot, a thick left over rough reef that is usually towed on big days.

Ireland West

Aileen's, the giant right below the Cliffs of Moher, and the heavy slab at Crab Island off Doolin harbour.

Lisbon coast

Coxos, the most famous wave of the Ericeira World Surfing Reserve: a powerful, hollow right over a shallow, urchin-covered reef.

Scotland

Thurso East, a long, powerful right with barrel sections in front of Thurso Castle, often named among the best waves in Europe.

Madeira

Jardim do Mar, the right point that put Madeira on the surf map, holds swells well over 5 m.

Azores

Santa Catarina on Terceira, one of Europe's heaviest slabs, and the deep-water big-wave reef of Baixa da Viola off São Miguel.

22 spots

  1. Nazaré – Praia do Norte

    Nazaré · Portugal Centro · Expert · Beach break · 5 live cams

    The Nazaré canyon focuses Atlantic swell into some of the biggest surfed waves on Earth, including Sebastian Steudtner's 26.2 m world record in October 2020. Giant days are tow and paddle teams only; thousands watch from the fort.

  2. Urrugne – Belharra

    Urrugne · Pays Basque · Expert · Reef break

    A reef plateau about 3 km offshore near Urrugne that stands up giant waves only a few days a year, on huge autumn or winter swells with a southerly wind. Reached by jet ski or boat; for elite big-wave teams only.

  3. Mullaghmore Head

    Mullaghmore · Ireland North West · Expert · Reef break

    Ireland's best-known big-wave spot, a thick left over rough reef that only breaks when the swell is far bigger than a person. Big days are surfed with jet skis; waves of up to about 15 m were ridden here on 8 March 2012.

  4. Hossegor – La Gravière

    Soorts-Hossegor · Landes · Expert · Beach break · live cam

    Widely rated the best beach break in Europe: thick, fast barrels close to the beach, at their most consistent in October. Experts only, and packed when it fires.

  5. Mundaka

    Bizkaia · Expert · River mouth

    The left Basque tourism calls the best wave in Europe. It needs a big north-west swell, a southerly and a falling low tide, and is most consistent in January. Experts only.

  6. Aileens

    Liscannor · Ireland West · Expert · Reef break

    A giant right below the Cliffs of Moher that needs a large, long-period west swell and an east wind. Huge, hollow and powerful; for elite big-wave surfers only.

  7. Guéthary – Parlementia

    Guéthary · Pays Basque · Advanced · Reef break · live cam

    The Basque big-wave reef, breaking on long-period swells of two to four metres with a light south-east wind. Advanced surfers on bigger boards, and a great show from the shore.

  8. Jardim do Mar

    Calheta · Madeira · Expert · Point break · live cam

    A world-class right point over boulders, with walls up to about 300 m and barrel sections, that holds swells well over 5 m. It needs a large north-west swell at low tide; fewer than 15 surfers, all very capable.

  9. Thurso East

    Thurso · Scotland · Advanced · Reef break

    Scotland's best-known wave, a long, powerful right with barrel sections at the mouth of the Thurso river. It needs a solid north-west groundswell, a rising mid tide and a south-easterly; advanced surfers.

  10. Supertubos

    Peniche · Portugal Centro · Expert · Beach break · live cam

    One of the heaviest beach breaks in Europe, where the harbour breakwater shapes thick, fast barrels, the lefts usually the better wave. A west to south-west swell and a north-east wind; crowded with locals, pros and bodyboarders.

  11. Ericeira – Coxos

    Ribamar · Lisbon coast · Expert · Reef break

    Ericeira's most famous wave, a fast, hollow right over a shallow reef covered in sea urchins. It wants a long-period north-west swell; the line-up is packed with strong locals and the mood is territorial.

  12. Sopela – Meñakoz

    Sopela · Bizkaia · Expert · Reef break

    A powerful big-wave right over a rock reef north of Sopela, starting at about 1.5 m and holding very large swells. Watch from the cliff, as Basque tourism suggests.

  13. Getxo – Punta Galea

    Getxo · Bizkaia · Expert · Reef break

    A big-wave right off the point at the mouth of the Bilbao estuary, which starts at about two metres and is heavy and remote under the cliffs.

  14. Hossegor – La Nord

    Soorts-Hossegor · Landes · Expert · Beach break

    The Gouf canyon focuses winter swell onto La Nord, which holds big waves when other banks close out. Heavy, with long paddles.

  15. El Confital

    Las Palmas de Gran Canaria · Western Canaries · Expert · Reef break

    A long, hollow right over a shallow volcanic ledge on the edge of Las Palmas, with the barrel running down the whole wave. Experts; very crowded when good, with an intense local crew.

  16. Santa Catarina

    Praia da Vitória · Azores · Expert · Slab

    One of Europe's heaviest slabs, by the port of Praia da Vitória on Terceira: a short peak throwing thick barrels over very shallow lava reef, known locally as the deadly princess. 10–20 of the island's best surfers when it is on.

  17. Guéthary – Avalanche

    Guéthary · Pays Basque · Expert · Reef break

    A powerful outer-reef left off the end of the Guéthary harbour jetty that starts at about 2.5–3 m and is best on 4–6 m swells. Experts and professionals.

  18. El Quemao

    La Santa · Lanzarote and Fuerteventura · Expert · Reef break

    Often called the Canarian Pipeline: a short, very hollow left onto a shallow lava shelf off La Santa's old harbour, which holds big swell. Often empty because it is so heavy; local chargers get priority.

  19. Rodiles – river left

    Villaviciosa · Asturias · Advanced · River mouth · live cam

    One of the best lefts in Spain at the Villaviciosa rivermouth, needing a two-to-three-metre north-west swell and a light southerly. Advanced, with a strong local hierarchy.

  20. Doolin – Crab Island

    Doolin · Ireland West · Expert · Slab

    A heavy right-hand slab off the island outside Doolin harbour, with a sudden steep drop and a thick lip over shallow, uneven reef. It catches more swell than most spots nearby; a small, experienced crew.

  21. Baixa da Viola

    Ribeira Grande · Azores · Expert · Reef break

    A big-wave reef off São Miguel's north coast, where swells come out of deep water and jump up into steep, powerful walls. It needs a large, long-period north swell; usually empty.

  22. Isla de Santa Marina

    Ribamontán al Mar · Cantabria · Expert · Reef break

    Cantabria's best-known big-wave right, which only breaks on large, long-period north-west swells. Experts only.

Tips from the line-up

  1. Be honest about your level. If you are not sure you belong in the line-up, you probably do not, yet.
  2. Watch for at least half an hour before paddling out: count the sets, find the channel, see where people get caught inside.
  3. Big waves need bigger boards and proper safety planning: a partner watching from the shore, and an inflation vest at the heaviest spots.
  4. Respect the local hierarchy at Mundaka, Rodiles, Gravière, Coxos and El Confital. Patience earns waves.
  5. When watching, stay well back from cliff edges, harbour walls and car parks that are closed by decree.

Sources